Emergency Plumber in Seattle, WA

A slab leak is a leak in a supply or drain pipe that runs beneath your concrete foundation. Because the pipe is under the slab, water from the leak doesn't surface immediately - it migrates through the concrete and soil, often showing up first as warm spots on the floor, unexplained water bill increases, or the sound of water running when everything in the house is off. Left unaddressed, slab leaks cause significant structural damage: the water erodes the soil under the slab, which can lead to foundation settling, concrete cracking, and mold growth in the subfloor. Detection is done non-invasively using acoustic listening equipment and thermal imaging cameras. Once pinpointed, the repair is typically done through a targeted access cut rather than breaking up large sections of floor.

Polybutylene (PB) is a grey or dull blue flexible plastic pipe installed in millions of U.S. homes from approximately 1978 to 1995. Look under your kitchen or bathroom sink at the supply lines - PB is distinctly grey and has a matte plastic texture, different from the shiny metal of copper or braided stainless lines. If you find it, yes, you should take it seriously: PB degrades from the inside out when exposed to chlorinated water, developing micro-fractures that eventually cause sudden failures with no warning. Most insurance carriers now flag or exclude PB homes. Replacement with PEX is the permanent solution - it's a significant project but eliminates the risk completely.

Sudden whole-house pressure drops narrow to a few specific causes: your pressure reducing valve (PRV) has failed or its setting has slipped (common in homes over 10 years old), your municipal supply pressure dropped (confirm with your neighbor), your main shutoff valve is partially closed or its internal components have deteriorated, or a supply line somewhere in the home has a significant leak pulling volume out of the system. In older homes with galvanized pipes, internal corrosion can narrow the pipe bore enough to restrict flow - but this usually happens gradually, not suddenly. A sudden change almost always points to the PRV or a valve issue.

The answer depends on the unit's age and what failed. Below 8 years old: repair almost always makes sense unless the tank itself is leaking (tank leaks cannot be repaired - only the tank body holding the water). Between 8–12 years: evaluate the repair cost versus replacement. A failed heating element ($150–$250) is worth repairing. A failed thermostat ($100–$200) is worth repairing. A leaking tank or a repair that costs more than 50% of a new unit is the tipping point for replacement. Over 12 years with any internal failure: replacement is typically the right financial decision because the remaining life expectancy doesn't justify the repair cost. We give you the honest math, not the most profitable recommendation.